tutorial: convert a knit top pattern to maternity

We came across Nicole's stunning maternity Marais Knit Top in the Liesl + Co. Friends Facebook group and reached out to her immediately. We’re so glad she agreed to share this tutorial on how to adapt a knit top pattern for maternity wear. I donated most of my maternity clothes after my daughter was born in 2018, so now that I’m expecting my third child, I decided to try modifying some existing patterns into maternity-friendly versions. It turns out that when starting with a knit top, these changes are pretty straightforward. The core concept is simple (and commonly seen in ready-to-wear maternity clothing): Add length to the front of the pattern and use elastic to gather the extra length into ruched side seams. There are several excellent options in the Liesl + Co. pattern collection. I’ve already adjusted the Metro T-Shirt and the Marais Knit Top, but the same approach should work equally well for the Chai Tee or Maritime Knit Top. [Insert Image] Note: I began with the Marais and picked up some tips along the way, so the notes and measurements below are based on my Metro T-Shirt experience. Step 1: Choose Your Pattern This modification works best with a knit top that has relatively simple side seams and fabric with some stretch. It doesn't have to be a plain t-shirt. The Marais, with its bodice pieces and bust darts, offers a bit more shape but still functions perfectly as a maternity top. Step 2: Determine Your Size Don’t rely solely on your pre-pregnancy waist measurement to choose your size! If you've made the pattern before pregnancy and were happy with the fit, that size is probably a good starting point. However, re-measure your bust—you may need to size up there, even if not elsewhere. If you're like me and fall between two sizes, think about whether you'd prefer a looser or snugger fit, and consider the elasticity of your fabric. Step 3: Modify Your Pattern Pieces The only change required to transform a knit top into a maternity version is adding extra length for belly space. Adding about 5 inches to the front pattern piece will provide ample room for growth in a stretchy knit. Ensure that the difference between the front and back remains 5 inches if you make other length adjustments. For instance, if you usually shorten your tops by 1 inch, shorten the back pattern piece accordingly but add 4 inches to the front piece. Regardless of whether you decide to add 5 inches or another amount, this measurement will be **Measurement A**. Split your pattern at the lengthen/shorten line to adjust the length for the front (and back, if applicable) pattern piece and redraw the side seams, as detailed here. Keep in mind that the gathered front and your expanding belly will make the redrawn side seams quite forgiving, so there’s no need to stress over perfection. [Insert Image] From here, you can also include any other usual alterations. As you can see from my Metro T-Shirt pattern pieces, I incorporated a broad shoulder adjustment. Once you have your modified front pattern piece, decide where you want the gathering to begin and end to accommodate the extra pattern length. I estimated this by looking at some purchased maternity tops, which seem to start the gathering 3-5 inches from the underarm seam and end it anywhere from the hem to 3 inches above it. Mark your desired start and stop points on both your pattern and fabric, then measure the distance between them. This distance is **Measurement B**. To calculate the length of your elastic, subtract **Measurement A** (the total difference between the front and back lengths) from **Measurement B** (the length between the start and stop points of your gathering). Then add about 1/2 inch to that number to allow enough elastic on either end of the seam for easy handling while stretching. Depending on your pattern's seam allowance (either 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch), either width of elastic might work. You'll find that 1/4-inch elastic is easier to handle but harder to keep hidden in a narrow seam allowance. [Insert Image] For my Metro T-Shirt, the gathering marks were 14 inches apart. Thus, I cut my elastic pieces to be 9 1/2 inches long (14 - 5 + 1/2 = 9 1/2). Accounting for approximately 1/4 inch of unstretched elastic on each end of the seam, that 14 inches of fabric would shrink to 9 inches on the side seam, matching the lengths of the front and back pattern pieces. Step 4: Attach Elastic to the Shirt Front Seam Allowance Since it will be within the seam allowance, you can do this on either the right or wrong side of the fabric. Place the elastic on top of your fabric with the needle down through the elastic, stretching the elastic (not the fabric) until they are the same length. Maintain an even stretch in front of and behind the needle, keeping the elastic aligned with the edge of your fabric. Use either a serger or a sewing machine with a zigzag stitch to secure the elastic. [Insert Image] After sewing the elastic into both sides, it's worth checking quickly to ensure that the front and back pattern pieces are now nearly the same length from the underarm seam to the hem before proceeding. Step 5: Assemble Your Shirt That’s it! From here, follow the pattern instructions to complete your shirt. The only additional step is ensuring that the stitches from attaching the elastic are tucked inside the side seam. If you used a serger and the pattern assumes 1/4-inch seams, you may need to widen your side seams slightly to prevent any thread from showing on the outside of the shirt. [Insert Image] And voila! Now you have a beautifully tailored maternity top. [Insert Image] This process has been a rewarding learning experience, and I hope these steps help you create something special for yourself during this exciting time. Let me know if you have any questions or need further guidance! Happy sewing!

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