Marc Jacobs, can you show? Counting heroes late designer

Earlier on the LVMH investor conference call, the group chairman was asked when he was asked "whether he is worried about President Trump's appointment":

"I am more worried about Marc Jacobs than President Trump."

The 57-year-old Marc Jacobs has a lot of talks on social media, and there are even many sayings that Marc Jacobs's show is "Swan Song", which means the singer that the swan sang before he died. However, in the last few seasons, Marc Jacobs has been more frustrated and more courageous, giving a ready-to-wear show that is as sophisticated as Haute Couture.

It is worth mentioning that Marc Jacobs 2019 autumn and winter reduced the size of the show, the previous 55 or so styling look reduced to 40, but still the most important finale of New York Fashion Week. The Marc Jacobs show was not discounted, and the show was still on the New York Armory, where he installed a reflective black mirrored floor and hired an American contemporary music ensemble to perform live.

Marc Jacobs put the band in a corner, away from the runway, but the light is sufficient, the picture is focused on the model, everyone is playing in the command space, the models are squirming, all of which are merged into intimacy An unforgettable conversation with the distance.

The veteran American designer explored the oversized proportions for several seasons through the silhouettes of Claude Montana and Yves Saint Laurent in the 1980s.

However, the huge silhouette once again appeared in the autumn and winter show, but this time Marc Jacobs is looking in the mirror, instead of paying tribute to the old fashion designer: the coat and the cloak are his repertoire, the tulle party dress, A-line skirt and round neck, the Prince of Wales set. The jacket and cloak are full of flowing air, and the layered petticoats have a strong presence, and Stephen Jones, who has worked on multiple seasons, has designed a unique hat for almost every shape.

The supermodel Christy Turlington, who is 20 years old and 50 years old, wears a black glossy feathered off-the-shoulder dress to close the Marc Jacobs 2019 autumn and winter show. The last time Christy was a Marc show, this is also the New York Fashion Week this season. High Lights moments.

It is worth mentioning that Marc Jacobs also worked with well-known stylist Katie Grand to discover the Japanese designer rookie Tomo Koizumi on Instagram and held a show in the basement of Marc Jacobs Pop-upstore in Madison Avenue, New York. For the designer rookie, Marc Jacobs is also "Bole", he also found legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath and hair stylist Guido Palau to do the fashion show for Tomo Koizumi, and this show made Tomo Koizumi famous in New York For such good luck, even Tomo Koizumi could not believe it.

The discovery of rookie design has become an increasingly indispensable part of Fashion Week in recent years, and both New York and London Fashion Week have such a soil.

As a street photographer, Tommy Ton's name is unknown. He has appeared in the front row of countless brands, but when he first started his own show, it was a year after becoming the creative director of Deveaux.

The New York brand created by Andrea Tsao and Matthew Breen, the reason why Tommy Ton was invited, must be based on his ability to interpret the street trends. Ton showed a variety of models, including non-models, "real women" and various Models of the age group, which he calls eternal beauty, also point out that the design of the brand focuses on multiple generations of appeal: there is no age limit in personal style, and these designs are so elegant, free, neutral, full of sensuality and touch. Spiritually still minimalist. Presumably, this will be a favorite of many artistic people.

In the fashion circle where newcomers emerged, the boundaries of the designers were also blurred. Tomo Koizumi graduated from Chiba University and had experience as a stylist assistant and artist custom clothing assistant. Tommy Ton’s career is a street photographer. They are not graduated from the college, but their experience has become their own trump card.

Coincidentally, Raf Simons, who was born in the same period as Marc Jacobs, was born in Belgium and graduated from the Royal Academy of Art in Antwerp in 1991, but his major is industrial and furniture design. However, when Raf Simons parted ways with Calvin Klein eight months in advance, despite the unclear positioning of the CK brand and the lengthy product line, there are also some industry voices questioning whether Raf Simons has gone against the current fashion tide.

Coincidentally, Diane Von Furstenburg, a 70-year-old American veteran designer, was unable to hand over a good market transcript. The rumors that the DVF brand has been sold are endless. After the former CEO Paolo Riva left DVF, the brand led by Von Furstenburg has been swaying in the storm. This time, at New York Fashion Week, DVF reduced the scale of the show and changed the fashion show into a release party.

The old designer brand represented by Diane Von Furstenburg, in the language of printing and wrap dress, is difficult to find the "communication" path of effective dialogue with young people.

It is reported that DVF introduces external investment by selling part of its shares in order to cope with the difficulties, and at the same time allows professionals outside the family to participate in daily management to complete the digital transformation problem that is currently the primary solution. However, for DVF, finding the design expression that is consistent with the recognition of the younger generation is the key to the turnaround.

Diane Von Furstenburg is the core asset of the DVF brand, and her age and time background have made DVF popular among women in the same year. However, with the changing times of the times, DVF's fashion department store retail channels have undergone qualitative changes. With the development difficulties faced by department stores such as Messi, the advantages of Diane Von Furstenburg have gradually failed.

Earlier, foreign media pointed out that Diane Von Furstenburg is treating her 19-year-old granddaughter as the latest inspiration for Muse, which provides a fresh impetus for DVF's young design reform. However, for veteran designers, how to understand the preferences of the current mainstream young consumer groups, how DVF builds a new aesthetic under the current era of context, has become a major problem for veteran designers.

There is no doubt that the wheel of time will always look forward, as is the fashion industry.

Just as the ancients said: The waves of the Yangtze River are pushing forward, the fashion industry is sparing no effort to accept diversified design rookies. At one time, London Fashion Week was a test field for rookies to show up and to dig "design talents". However, this year's 2019 New York Fall and Winter Fashion Week, due to the absence of the US "head card" such as CK, Tommy Hilfiger, gave the rookie brands such as Edwin Mohney, Tomo Koizumi, Caroline Hu, Puppets and Puppets full performance space.

After the short three days of London Fashion Week, the 2019 Fall Winter Milan Fashion Week. It is worth mentioning that this year's Milan Fashion Week also began to work hard to get rid of the traditional "aging" hat, began to learn from London to support rookie designers, Italian Fashion Chamber of Commerce (CNMI) Chairman Carlo Capasa stressed: "This season's schedule Very colorful and has many Italian and international newcomers."

In this way, the awesome momentum of the future is getting more and more advanced in the fashion industry without rules. Perhaps the best times for designing newcomers are coming.