Four major injuries constrain the development of the Shishi garment industry and seek for rejuvenation

Shishi is a coastal city with a strong personality. Twenty-three years ago, it was promoted from a rural market town to a county-level city under the jurisdiction of the provincial government.

Once upon a time, clothes became synonymous with stone lions. “Everything over the top of the street, with streets full of business” vividly reflects the prosperity of the Shishi City clothing trade.

Today, more than 20 years ago, the Shishi, which was established by “selling” clothes in the past, has become an important focus of China's textile and apparel sector. Casual wear and jackets account for about a quarter of the country's total. Sportswear, children's wear, and underwear exports also It occupies a dominant position in the country. There are more than 7,000 garment enterprises in the city with an annual output value of more than 200 billion yuan, output of more than 500 million pieces (sets), more than 4,000 registered trademarks of apparel, and more than 1,000 textile enterprises and more than 100 bleaching and dyeing enterprises. There are more than 1,000 auxiliary materials enterprises, and all kinds of casual fabrics account for more than 50% of the same kind of products in the country.

“However, although the total amount of Shishi clothing is huge, the scale of its business is small, and only a handful of well-known brands can be heard in the country. The original “Shishi special shop counter” that has been spread all over the country’s major shopping malls has long since disappeared. On the contrary, the Wenzhou and Changshu garments that were not as old as those of the Shishi were now in full swing, "said Zhou Shaoxiong, president of the Quanzhou Textile and Apparel Chamber of Commerce.

The young chairman of the Seven Wolves Group, known as the leader of the “Shupai” costume, emphasized at the same time, “The trajectory of the rise and fall of the Shishi garment industry is very obvious. It is a typical sample, and it is a reflection of the development of other apparel sectors in China. value."

Turned out of the 80s of the last century, Shishi clothing is known throughout the country for its novel style and variety. At that time, Shishi District, which was only a few square kilometers away from the area, was a stone road and a dust road, but it formed 18 commercial wholesale streets, 8 professional clothing wholesale markets, 8,000 shops, and many shops were made of wood and bamboo. However, there are more than 67,000 domestic and foreign merchants who come to shop every day to wholesale clothing, small commodities, or admirers. This is the result of the “National Stone Lion Runs” and “Millions of Businessmen”.

“In those years, all those who do clothing business must run two places. One is Guangzhou, and the other is Shishi. At that time, the Shishi market was full of vitality. Everywhere there are opportunities to make money.” Looking back at the old stone lions, Zhou Shaoxiong’s infinity Feelings of emotion.

When Lu Shi, deputy general manager of Shishi Great Group, talked about the grand occasion of Shishi Garment Market in the same year, it was equally unsatisfactory. "A lot of big brands in Quanzhou clothing or domestic first-line brands, such as Kinba, Lilang, Septwolves, and Wopai, all started out as stone lions. Their first pot of gold was dug in Shishi, even if there were several domestic priorities. The clothing production area also benefited from the Shishi market in the early days.” As a new generation of Weinan entrepreneurs, Lu Wei, who was born in 1984, after studying in Singapore for six years, is currently inheriting the apparel industry of Everbright’s parents. His mentality is extremely open.

As a matter of fact, before the phenomenon of “running the stone lion across the country” appeared, there was a saying that “the lions ran across the country”.

The story of how Shishi people developed the national market during this period is still circulating. Since 1990, the young government of this young city has adopted the “Government to set up a stage and companies to sing operas”. From time to time, it organizes garment manufacturers to host new products exhibitions in major cities across the country. The mayor leads the team to “pro-estate” entrepreneurs. Encouraged.

Since then, the nationally renowned "Shishi Clothing Store" or "special cabinet" has taken root in major department stores in major cities. Its business is prosperous and attracts attention. At the same time, Shishiren also established overseas sales channels through overseas Chinese parents, established more than 160 trade and business establishments overseas, established 270 border trade points along the northeast to southwest borders, and exported 40% of Shishi’s products for export. To more than 30 countries and regions.

“At that time, the government took us to “wash cities” in major cities across the country. We sold them all over the north and south of the country. Shishi clothing quickly gained fame and the lions also attracted the attention of the whole nation.” Shi Shi Textile and Garment Industry Association President, Leopard Cai Dongsheng, chairman of children's wear company, said.

The rise and prosperity of the Shishi garment industry has attracted the attention of the domestic industry. It was awarded the title of “Chinese Casual Clothing City” by the China National Textile and Apparel Association and the China Garment Association. The three offices under the jurisdiction of Lingxiu, Qiongjiang, Baogai and Fengli are also It was named "China Sports and Leisure Clothing Town", "China's West Pants Town", "China Fashion Accessories Town" and "China's Children's Wear Town".

The halo is fading. However, the wave of sand rushes against the water, and the clothing industry of Shishi has experienced a tide of ebb and flow.

In the middle and late 1990s, Shishi's garment enterprises increasingly felt the pressure of competition, and "one thing alone" became "all four." The clothing industry in Zhejiang Wenzhou, Dalian in Liaoning, Humen in Guangdong, and Changshu in Jiangsu has developed rapidly, forming a pressing trend for the Shishi.

Dalian took the lead in establishing the International Fashion Festival in 1989. This clothing festival has now become the most prestigious international economic and cultural event in the domestic industry. Humen’s advantage lies in the intersection of Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Zhuhai and Guangdong, Hong Kong, and Hong Kong Economic Corridors. The ancestors learned about the dynamic changes in the international clothing market, and registered hundreds of trademarks in more than 120 countries and regions. Changshu has more than 4,000 clothing and apparel companies, and a large number of companies also specialize in processing and producing world-renowned brands. The domestic casual wear market in Changshu and other places rely on low-cost production of extruded lions products; the relative shrinkage of the formalwear market has also contributed to the transformation of traditional formal wear enterprises in Wenzhou and Ningbo to leisure casual wear, forming a powerful force for the Shishi casual wear industry. The challenge.

The pattern of the national apparel industry has undergone drastic changes in this context. Shishi clothing has suffered unprecedented coldness. Shishi children's wear, which once had a market share of 95%, slipped to less than 5%. Cai Lesheng’s business of running Leopard’s children’s clothing is one of the representatives of Shishi’s children’s wear. “We started to distribute goods to the whole country from 1990. By 1998, we completely withdrew. The mood at the time was really mixed.”

In fact, the bosses of Shishi Garment Industry are all aware of why the market turned. “In the past, 'I had no people, I changed people's speed,' but now it’s 'I have someone, I’m getting faster.’ North and South Zhejiang, South Jiangsu, Guangzhou and Shenzhen to the south, their price, style, quality, Which of the fabrics and lions does not have an advantage or even a disadvantage," said a government official who declined to be named.

After the frustration of the domestic market, Shishi garment companies turned their sights abroad. However, most of their export garments are mainly for human processing. “Big price”, large profits are earned by middlemen, and Shishi companies receive only modest processing fees. Even worse, after many garments entered the foreign market, most of them were sold in the “flea market” and eventually formed a bad impression that “Lion made” garments could only be rotated in the low-end market.

Some small enterprises' clothing may not meet the requirements or the other party is too picky, resulting in the phenomenon of breach of contract. This kind of simple clothing has to be "exported to domestic sales", but it can not enter the big shopping malls, and can only be the same as other low-end clothing or enter the "ground stalls" or piled into the warehouse.

During this period, the Shishi Garment Industry was not only inferior to its products, but also the market that had previously been prosperous. In response to this, Zhou Shaoxiong said, “For many years, Shishi has used a small town in a small city to create a market with a small business structure. It missed the opportunity to build a large market. At this time, Yiwu’s small commodity market soon formed a climate. However, the market has not yet formed a large pattern. The wholesale market in early years did not fully grasp it. When the other domestic clothing market rises, it is evenly divided between the lions and even the Changshu and Zhengzhou. Originally, they were secondary markets. Shishi is a The market is now reversed."

The successes and failures of the development process of the four major injuries in the development of the Shishi garment industry are discussed. Zhou Shaoxiong, Cai Dongsheng, and Lü Wei all mentioned the "mistakes" in the growth of the industry.

The first is the issue of scale. Behind Shi Lang’s products is the cold, the company’s “powerless”. According to Zhou Shaoxiong, “The majority of companies in Shishi are factories with dozens of individuals and hundreds of individuals, while in foreign or domestically developed regions, the scale of such enterprises is thousands or thousands. Like other places in the country The 'order economy' has created a production base, but at the same time there are also bottlenecks that will become bigger and stronger."

In the past, companies in Shishi had more orders through Hong Kong, and large-scale enterprises themselves went to various large-scale trade fairs to directly contact customers. It now appears that scale is a very important bargaining chip. The scale is too small. A single production cycle will be long. If a customer can do it, if there are more, there will be no way. At the end, the original one will be lost.

Pengtian Village is a relatively concentrated area of ​​sports and leisure apparel produced in Shishi City. There are more than 200 sport and apparel manufacturing enterprises in the whole village. However, there are less than 10 enterprises with a certain scale. It is said that there are many stars and fewer moons.

Followed by family management problems. When talking about the crisis in Pengtian Village, Cai Dongsheng said: Most of the Shishi garment enterprises are family-owned enterprises, and family-owned management has become a common problem for Shishi companies.

"They are basically the whole family, the brothers are the bosses, the sisters are managing money, the sons are in charge of marketing, and the key departments are all guarded by their families. They want to introduce talents, but they lack sufficient trust in talents and can't put talents to work. What is more, the companies are fighting each other and lacking the spirit of cooperation. There are very few exchanges between employers."

Cai Dongsheng said that these problems, which were not problems at the beginning, have now become the biggest problems. Foreign research data shows that the family business life is generally about 23 years; family business can continue to the second generation, only 39%; can continue to the third generation only 15%. Shishi’s family business is now facing this kind of life and death.

"The hurdle that family businesses have to go through is to transform family management into a specialized company based on contracts and property. In addition, too many family members participate in the development of professional managers," said Zhou Shaoxiong.

The third issue is the research and development and creation of brand names. The design is one of the soul and core competitiveness of the garment industry, but for a long time, the design is the weakness of the Shishi garment industry. There are no obvious differences in the product style between several first-line brands of Shishi. The homogenization of products has led to increased internal competition in the region, which is extremely unfavorable to the development of the entire regional industry.

The lack of brand is also intriguing. Shishi clothing industry has two extreme reactions to this, some people regret that they did not play brand in the past; some people are indifferent to the concept of the brand, that companies do not think so much about this issue is not meaningful.

Zhou Shaoxiong said, “I used to imitate a brand and look for a celebrity to advertise on the line. It is a simpler technique. You can create a brand now. Consumers value the brand's connotation and culture. This requires the company to ensure the quality of the brand.”

The fourth issue is the government's guidance and promotion. Cai Dongsheng said that some Shishi garment enterprises have dispersed their energies into other areas after they have developed to a certain stage. In fact, their foundations have not been conclusive. As a result, the “old line” has been lost, and the newly expanded projects have not gone smoothly. For businessmen, it is the business plan to make money. At this time, government planning and guidance are particularly important.

Wei Ran, assistant president of Jianjian Group, expects the government to work harder on the employment environment. In the past few years, two or three hundred workers in Shishi No. 1 Factory collectively jumped in Wenzhou, and media reports later reported that “who ousted the lions from 100,000 migrant workers? The general default on wages caused bad results.” In this regard, Wei Ran said, “Corporate behavior is sometimes very short-sighted. Overtime and super-intensity work is for more profits, but the object is extremely negative. It eventually causes a shortage of workers in the Shishi. Like these, the government should vigorously intervene. But I don't think this is enough."

From the period of 2003 to 2005, many famous brands of Shishi, such as Starka, Cabin, etc., moved to Guangzhou. “As a city, a government, or has your development ideas, but our company also has its own growth process. When our development meets a bottleneck, and some of the resources we need can be effectively provided locally, we will consider the company's headquarters. The question of whether or not the economy is to be removed," said Lu Wei.

Seeking to rejuvenate Nowadays, revitalizing the garment industry has become a top priority for Shishi and for the 12th Five-Year Plan period.

Since last year, the lions that have been quiet and quiet for many years have revived the lively scene. With a total investment of 2 billion yuan and an international garment distribution center covering 1,110 acres, and Shishi Garment City, Asia’s largest apparel specialty market, after eight years of construction, its supporting facilities and functions are fully in place today, achieving the founders at the time. At the time, the original intention of Shishi Municipal Committee and the current director of Quanzhou City, Li Jianguo, was to promote the structural adjustment and industrial upgrading of Shishi garment industry and the important carrier for marketing the city. According to the plan, Shishi will use the “clothing city” as the image axis, Positioned as “International Textile City” to improve the high-end competitiveness of the regional market.

Huang Shih-kang, mayor of Shishi, said that Shishi textile and garment industry has been cultivated for more than 20 years and currently forms a complete industrial chain covering textiles, bleaching and dyeing, garment processing production, auxiliary materials production, marketing and other fields. Annual output value exceeds 30 billion yuan, industrial clusters Obvious advantages.

"To go to Shishi to do a garment factory, do not bring anything, as long as the money on the line." This image of the industry to say, reflecting the Shishi's textile and apparel industry chain, a complete set of upstream and downstream elements of reality. In response to this, Lu Hao had a lot of feelings. He said, “Why did the China National Textile and Apparel Industry Association give the name of 'Famous City of Casual Clothes' to the Shishi because it has a very good industrial chain and market foundation. It should be said that the revitalization of the Shishi is still large. There is hope."

According to Huang Nankang’s introduction, Shishi took the lead in setting up science and technology awards in the province, setting up 10 million yuan in annual industrial development, focusing on supporting industrial innovation companies, giving incentives to enterprises to set up innovation or research centers, and focusing on textile and apparel leading industries. Invest 230 million yuan to build the country's first county-level public service platform for textile and apparel ASP, accelerate the transformation and application of scientific and technological achievements; at the same time, as an important platform for the cross-strait textile and garment industry docking, Shishi is strengthening the industrial cooperation between the two sides of the post-ECFA era.

Huang Nankang particularly emphasized that starting a lion brand and playing a lion's business card cannot be biased, because taking the brand road is a short-cut for the company's development, and improving the lion's popularity is to win the company's development space. The two should interact together and complement each other. To this end, he strongly encouraged companies to go public and develop headquarters economies, and promote the transformation and upgrading of industries and cities and benign development.

Since he took office in October last year, Huang Nankang has hosted three consecutive corporate conferences and called for three or four hundred textile companies. He has face-to-face discussions with bosses on topics such as scale, listing, and innovation. Some supporting policies have also been introduced. Feel the lions revive the atmosphere of the apparel industry.

Wei Ran, who joined Jianjian in 2005, said that she was watching the garment city cover all day. This empty modern building was deserted a few years ago. "But since the second half of last year, the situation has changed, and the government's efforts have been particularly great. Shops that were previously reluctant to move out of the old district are now migrating all over, and the market will soon thrive. Also, this year's 'Haibohui' ( The textile and clothing fairs across the Taiwan Strait are also doing very well. There are contents and levels, and there are some international exhibitions."

Wei Ran said that Lv Yu felt the same way. He said, “Now, the mayor and the mayor often go to the company to investigate, talk to us, grasp the real situation of the company, and obviously feel that the government has to make the industry bigger and stronger.”

However, Zhou Shaoxiong who stands at the commanding heights of the industry believes that the Shishi garment industry must not only stand in the perspective of the whole country, but also think about what kind of roles should be assumed from the perspective of global resource allocation. After all, it has become the first choice for multinational procurement in many countries and regions. Shishi still has many opportunities. The key is that cities and industries must open their horizons and form a big pattern. Then, the prospects of the lions are still bright, and the costumes of the lions will reappear.

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