Basic cloth knowledge

I, the characteristics of the fabric - each fabric has its own characteristics, which is its own conditions and performance.

The material properties can be divided into raw fiber materials, weave, texture, weight, feel, finishing wear and cleaning performance.

Simply describe the weave, texture, weight, and wearing performance of the fabric.

1. Weave: Fabrics include woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. Most of our garments are made of woven fabrics. The most common woven fabrics are plain weave, twill weave, etc. The structure is related to the fabric's texture, weight and feel.

2, texture: Each material has its own organizational structure, due to different materials and weave, resulting in different touch / visual effects. Such as: smooth glossy cotton, soft and light gauze. An original cosplay dress pays great attention to texture, so be careful when picking fabrics. It's best to discuss cutting methods and materials with the tailor.

3, Weight: The weight of the fabric usually refers to G/M, (in grams per metre). This needless to say, if you want to be more elegant, you should pick a lighter fabric and vice versa. For example, outer wear, skirts, trousers, etc. use more heavy fabrics, and shirts use lighter fabrics. In addition, fabrics have a close relationship with the season. Basically, autumn and winter will use more heavy fabrics. Upper and lighter fabrics.

4. Wearing and cleaning performance: The wearing performance is whether the clothes are durable or not. The cleaning performance refers to whether the clothes can be machine washed or need to be hand-washed or dry-cleaned. This point is very important for everyday clothes, but in terms of cosplay clothes, it is generally negligible. Sometimes, in order to achieve the original BT effect, it is necessary to use a very cumbersome cloth, and clothes are not often worn, which sacrifices the convenience of wearing and cleaning.

II. Classification of fabrics

In fact, fabrics have many meanings. According to the material of the fabric, they are called textile fibers.

Although there are various kinds of textile fibers, they can be basically divided into natural fibers and chemical fibers.

★Natural fiber refers to textile fibers that are found in nature or obtained directly from artificially cultivated animals.

★Chemical fiber is a kind of textile fiber that is produced by a certain method using natural or synthetic polymers as raw materials.

★Man-made fibers refer to fibers that are made from natural polymers (such as wood, bagasse, or animal fibers, etc.) that have been processed and spun.

★ Synthetic fibers are fibers made from synthetic polymer giant spinning yarns based on petroleum, coal, natural gas and some agricultural and sideline products.

I. Natural fiber properties

(a) Cotton

1, strong moisture absorption, comfortable to wear, easy to dye, easier to shrink.

2, alkali and acid resistance, mercerized cotton is processed through the caustic soda.

3, cotton fiber is more heat-resistant, but not suitable for long time processing at 100 degrees, such as the ironing temperature of 190 degrees, the best wet cotton fabrics when ironing, which will help burn.

4, cotton fiber is soft, poor weak, cotton fabric feel good, comfortable to wear, washable, but easy to wrinkle, suitable for all types of clothing and bedding and other four seasons.

(b) Hemp

There are many varieties of hemp, such as ramie, flax, jute, **, etc.; The former two are used more often in fabrics. Hemp and cotton have some of the same properties.

1, strong moisture absorption, alkali-resistant acid.

2, heat resistance is also good, ironing temperature up to 190 degrees - 210 degrees, easy to burn.

3, the strength is higher than cotton, hemp fiber is hard, poor weak, the fabric is easy to wrinkle, harder than the cotton fabric, very, cool. The so-called Xiab is a ramie fabric that southerners love to wear and is not close to the body after sweating.

Ramie is the best quality fiber in hemp fiber, with cool, moisture absorption, breathable and other characteristics, and high stiffness, hard, very, not close, suitable for making summer clothing. Ramie and polyester blended process to obtain "Ma Ran indeed", with a cool style.

(III) Hairs

The wool with the largest amount of wool fibers for textile use is usually called wool.

The wool fibres are thicker than cotton fibres and have a certain degree of curl. The surface is covered with a layer of scales. Due to the presence of scales, it gives wool a special property, that is, velvety. Milling property refers to the fact that wool is rubbed in warm water and washing liquid to bite each other. In the life, it causes hair products to shrink after washing, and the density becomes larger. Milling is one of the reasons. If the scales are damaged and the performance is smooth, the hair products will not shrink. Therefore, the machine-washing sweater sold on the market undergoes such surface treatment.

Use less, slightly.

(four), silk

Natural silk is divided into silk and wild silk, silk silk is mulberry silk; wild silk in the main varieties of silk tussah. Silk strength, fiber slender, soft and smooth, weaker than cellulose fiber, with a unique luster. Silk fabrics that are thin and thin like yarn, but also can make it full and enterprising, such as high-Trat clothing materials, and wool are protein fibers.

Unless you are willing to cos, it is rarely used to exaggerate expensive fiber. slightly.

Second, the nature of chemical fiber

★ As the material of the garments, the major seven are lun. Their common characteristics are as follows:

A Hygroscopicity is generally lower than that of natural fibers, and it is easy to carry static electricity after being rubbed. It is easy to absorb dust.

B Most of the high strength, good elasticity, easy to wear fur ball for a long time.

C When burning, it usually softens and shrinks first, and some can melt, drop and draw, produce odor, and the ironing temperature is lower than natural fiber.

D Heat setting is better, because they are less hygroscopic, they can still remain after washing.

(a) Polyester (Dacron)

It is currently the fastest growing fiber in chemical fiber. Commonly known as Dacron. It is made of silk fabrics such as soft yarn, juli, jasmine, and the so-called “mash” that are popular with women on the summer market. The polyester and cotton blended fabrics are said to be cotton Dacron (cotton-polyester), blended with wool as wool-polyester, and linen-spun fabric as linen-polyester, etc. Its characteristics are: hot, air-tight, and difficult to dye, electrostatically charged after being rubbed, and easily vacuumed , but not easy to shrink, easy to wash, quick dry.

(b) Nylon (Nylon, Nylon, Capron)

Commonly referred to as nylon, nylon, Capron, etc., its characteristics: good elasticity, high strength, high abrasion resistance, poor light resistance, easy to yellow in the sun, often used in socks, gloves and knitted sportswear.

(III), Acrylic (Ounlon, Cashmere, Ai Ke Lun)

With fluffy, soft, warm and other characteristics, such as light weight, price, bright color, high degree of Taiwan, not moldy, do not wash after the hot and so on. Suitable for autumn and winter clothing fabrics, such as acrylic sweaters, spinning fur coats, and blankets and so on.

(d) Vinylon (Vinylon, Yarn, Coke)

After blending vinylon with cotton, it became a popular vinyl fiber fabric in the domestic market. Vinylon fabrics are very similar to cotton fabrics. The nature of synthetic fibers is closest to that of cotton fibers. Since vinylon is less used in clothing in China, it is mostly used in bedding products. Therefore, it is not much introduced.

(v) Viscose

Its raw materials are natural materials such as wood, bamboo, cotton linter, bagasse, etc. The spun fiber is also called rayon. The fabrics are: beautiful silk, Fuchunfang, artificial satin, rayon, and artificial hair. Its characteristics are as follows:

1, moisture absorption, flammable.

2, the surface is smooth, soft to the touch. Viscose fabrics are more drape than cotton, suitable for skirts and various fabrics, linings.

(6) Vinegar (ester, acid) fiber (dimensional)

Most of them are in the style of silk, and besides being used as a fabric, they are often used for making linings.

(vii) Spandex (Malydang, Lycra)

With only high elasticity like glue, it is also called elastic fiber. Can replace the use of rubber band, but the current price is more expensive.

1, high elasticity, with other high elasticity of the fiber, good wear resistance.

2. In the case of cold snow or sun, the face does not lose its elasticity.

III fabric check

One, cotton:

Advantages: sweat-absorbent, breathable, soft, sensitive, easy to clean, easy to lift the ball.

Disadvantages: easy to wrinkle, shrink, easily deformed.

Second, wool:

Advantages: warmth, soft hair, good elasticity, strong heat insulation.

Disadvantages: prone to hair ball, shrink, felt reaction.

Third, leather:

Advantages: It has certain breathing performance, high durability and high temperature resistance.

Color: The leather color is dark and soft, imitation leather is bright.

Fourth, nylon:

Advantages: smooth surface, lighter, durable, easy to wash, dry, flexible and flexible.

Disadvantages: Easy to generate static electricity.

Fifth, polyester fiber:

Advantages: good elasticity, silky softness, softness and softness.

Disadvantages: poor ventilation, easy static and hair ball.

Six, cotton:

Natural fabric, comfortable to wear, breathable, warm, but easy to wrinkle, difficult to handle, poor durability, fading.

hemp:

Seven, natural fabrics, comfortable, lightweight, breathable, but easy to wrinkle, not stiff, poor elasticity, skin prickle when wearing.

Eight, polyester:

Synthetic fabrics, easy care, crisp, no ironing, but poor air permeability, easy to produce static electricity, not easy to dye.

Nine, silk:

Smooth and soft, good texture, colorful, but not easy to handle, easy to wrinkle, shrink.

Ten, silk:

Gloss is soft, soft and delicate.

Rayon: metallic luster, rough touch.

Eleventh, silk - Fabric is shiny, soft and bright, soft and smooth, it is not easy to wrinkle, there is a certain stretch.

Twelve, silk and rayon

1, silk: soft, full of elasticity, soft lunar silk sound;

Rayon: It feels a bit stiffer, has a wet and cold feel, and is heavy in weight.

2, silk fabric luster than quiet, bright and not dazzling; rayon fabric has a unique metallic luster, bright and dazzling than silk fabrics.

3. Put your hands on the fabrics and put them on the sky. The silk fabrics have less wrinkles and less visible, and the rayon fabrics have more wrinkles.

Six, viscose - gloss than the cotton cloth brighter, smoother appearance than the cotton cloth fine, soft and smooth feel, body weight than the vertical weight, lack of flexibility, kneading easy wrinkles, wrinkles at easy recovery.

This method of identification can be used to identify fabrics, but it has certain limitations. For mixed fabrics, it is sometimes difficult to make accurate identification. However, the sensory identification method is simple and can be carried out without damaging the clothing and is suitable for general daily use.

For some reputable shopping malls or underwear brands, the fabric composition of the underwear can be known directly through the identification plate. These signs can be hung only through the inspection of textile quality inspection agencies and have a strong authority. Generally, there are two contents on the label, one is the fiber name, and the other is the fiber content (usually expressed as a percentage). Sometimes you will find that the name of the fiber on the plate is English and it seems very laborious. The names of some common fibers in English and Chinese are listed below.

Cotton Cotton

Acrylic Acrylic

Linen

Spandex Polyurethanes

Wool Wool

Polypropylene

Silk Silk

Polyester Chloride

Viscose Rayon Rayon

Cuprammonuium (Cupro)

Polyester Polyester Acetate Acetate

Polyamide Polyamide

Nylon)

Elastic Polythane (Elastan)

Vincent Vinal

Rayon Nitrocellulose Silk