How to "Pair the Strips" When Making Patterned, Striped Fabrics

The process of "strip to bar" is often encountered in the production of woven garments, especially in the production of suits, dresses and other garments using patterns or grids. In the current emphasis on improving the added value and product quality of apparel products, the quality of the "on the grid" technology has become a standard to measure the quality of this type of clothing. For example, the state has stipulated that if the clothing "pairs of bars" exceeds the allowable mutual difference, that is, the A defect, the entire batch of clothing can easily be judged as unqualified products, which also reminds the clothing company that it should pay attention to the "right against the bar" problem.

All kinds of clothing have strict requirements for "on the grid" and different products have different requirements. For example, trousers, the first request for the bar, then before and after the waves, trousers, plackets, side pocket stickers, bag cover, each to be aligned; with vertical bars, pants around the symmetry. The jacket, on the other hand, requires that both the front and back sheets are symmetrical, the crossbars should be aligned, and the sleeves, collars, lintels should be aligned with the body. Again as short skirts, as long as the front and rear symmetry, side seams can be aligned.

In order to achieve the purpose of the article, we should consider it from three aspects: First, we must strictly control fabrics, and fabric quality is the source. Whether it is knitted fabrics or woven fabrics, there is a certain degree of slant, if serious Unable to achieve "on the grid", before weaving found gray fabric weft, can be stereotyped; Second, we must close in the three processes of discharging, spreading, cutting, to complete the "on the grid on the bar" process Third, we must strengthen the day-to-day management of the sewing workers and ensure that they are "on the right".

In terms of spreading and cutting, so far, there is no automatic stretch cloth machine that is specially used for “grid-to-grain” pull cloths, and the effect of fully automatic cutting with “grid-to-stripe” cuts is not yet available. Get the user's high degree of recognition. It is still a difficult task to use full-automatic stretch cloth machines, automatic cutting machines, and other equipment to complete the patterning and cutting of pattern and stripe fabrics. This is closely related to the characteristics of the fabric. The fabrics of flowers, trees, animals and other fabrics have directionality when they are viewed from different directions and their fabrics have certain differences in their arrangement and layout. As long as the directionality of the fabric is not paid much attention, the pattern inversion phenomenon or the inconsistency between the two front and rear pieces of the garment pattern may occur.

In the production of patterns, strips and fabrics of clothing, as long as the "right to the grid" of the technical requirements, from the CAD layout to the distribution, cutting all aspects of the need for workers to deal with carefully.

When the style design has requirements on the grid, the layout of the layout can not be placed at random, such as the connection between the pocket and the front body. In fact, due to the fact that the specifications of the fabrics are not uniform and the quality of the fabrics is uneven, the “CAD-to-cell” system of garment CAD is often faced with problems in its use, which has certain limitations. At present, many CADs have developed the “on-grid-to-article” system. In the previous issue of “Chinese and Foreign Sewing Machines”, we introduced the Gerber CAD system on the grid-to-flower system in detail, and how to use this system. It also depends on the skill level of the operator.

In the case of the grid fabric, clothing layout, set the template alignment symbol. The requirements of the grid should be seen clearly, and it should be divided into two parts: vertical grid, vertical grid, horizontal grid, and vertical grid. There are three forms for the nesting. One is to hang the grid, the other is to adjust the seam allowance, and the third is to reserve one grid for adjustment.

When the layout of hanging material is in the form of hung checker, the two parts of the bar and the checker need to be accurately positioned according to the requirements of the grid. When the drawing is made, the grid is aligned so as to ensure the correct grid when the sewing combination is completed. The use of this method of material discharge requires the factory to use the positioning pinning material when it is laying, that is, the “Zag needle” method currently used by garment factories. At the bottom of the fabric with the layout of the material to find a special request on the site to tie the grid needle, after each layer of the shop, in this part to find the same with the underlying fabric of the "grid" or "bar", and tie in the grid needle on.

In order to achieve good results, some factories have used specialized bar-to-cell tables (needle beds) when positioning pins and cutting tools, and some use infrared positioning devices. It is recommended by the industry that the length of the positioning pin should be controlled within the "pitch height plus 2 cm", and the height of the plying when cutting is preferably less than 7 cm.

Position the pins on the four sides of the cloth with nails to ensure that the bars on the upper and lower layers of these parts are not misaligned as much as possible, so that the individual pieces of each layer of fabric are aligned with the grid, and then the pattern is cut out. Moreover, the combined parts should be arranged in the same grid direction as much as possible so as to avoid affecting the grid due to the unevenness of the raw material grid. In addition, we must also correct the latitude and longitude of the fabric when we are laying materials.

There is also a method of nesting, which does not draw the original shape, and the model is appropriately enlarged to leave a margin. When cutting, the enlarged hair sample should be cut open. After the blank is cut, it is required to draw a clean sample by layer and cut out the cut piece. This method is more accurate than the first method, and the material can also be used without positioning pins. However, it cannot be cut once. It is more labor-intensive and more expensive. This method is often used when high-grade garments are laid out.

Due to the cutting, it is difficult to ensure that the cutting knife is absolutely perpendicular to the fabric, and that the size of each layer of cutting material is inevitably inaccurate. It is difficult to align the grid pattern of the lower layer and the grid pattern of the upper layer, which requires the addition of According to the design requirements, each sample plate should be discharged outside the corresponding site, and a certain amount of cutting should be allowed, so that the actual cutting piece when cutting is larger than the sample plate, so that the requirements of the grid and the bar can be ensured during the sewing. On the other hand, if the pieces are as large as the template or the margin is small, then the lower pieces will be more difficult to “check the bars” when sewing.