Suit brand Suitsupply opens its first flagship store in Hong Kong

In the past year, there have been a lot of fashion brands that have withdrawn from Hong Kong: Coach, Abercrombie & Fitch, Forever21, RalphLauren. The city is no longer the only shopping paradise in mainland China. Many luxury brands have successively closed stores that are not profitable in high-rent locations, and returned to the birthplace to open flagship stores, such as Coach Fifth Avenue, Loewe Madrid, LouisVuitton Paris Champs Elysées, Burberry London Regent Street, etc. .

In the words of PascalMartin, a partner at consulting firm OC&CStrategy, in addition to saving performance in the short term, this adjustment is also to “emphasize the roots and history of the brand and serve Chinese tourists who travel to metropolitan cities around the world.”

But this does not mean that brands that favor Hong Kong are less. It is more like a change in retail format: as rents fall and the number of tourists declines, luxury brands are gone, but more popular brands enter.

The UNIQLO deputy brand GU of the Fast Retailing Group plans to enter Hong Kong this year. Adidas has placed Coach's original Central storefront, while Victoria's Secret has settled in the Hong Kong Causeway Bay flagship store with half of Forever21's rent.

It is against this background that the Dutch men's suit brand, Suitsupply, also opened its first flagship store in Central Hong Kong. Including Hong Kong stores, last year it opened four physical stores in China (Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong) and plans to open another one in Hangzhou Kerry Centre this year.

Suitsupply Hong Kong flagship store

The Suitsupply brand has been around for 17 years. It looks at the mid-market between the tens of dollars of Zara and the thousands of dollars of Armani, positioning it as "the first decent suit that can be owned without bankruptcy", which mainly refers to the ready-to-wear suit of $399 to $999. A semi-custom suit (MTM) from $1,049.

Currently, the brand has more than 70 stores in 16 countries, and another 30%-40% of sales come from online. According to business media BusinessInsider, its global turnover reached $190 million in 2015, with an annual growth rate of 25%.

Part of the rapid development of Suitsupply is due to the return of suits over the past few years. You know, in the year 2000 when the brand was founded, suits were hit by T-shirts and jeans due to the rise of Internet startups. According to Euromonitor's data, global suit sales fell by 21.1% in one year. In sharp contrast to the high-end denim clothing – from 1999 to 2008, sales of this category increased by nearly 200%.

However, the financial crisis of 2008 put the leisure wind back to the tune. “Men are beginning to pursue casual and sophisticated wear,” NPD Group industry analyst Marshal Cohen said in an interview with Fortune magazine. “For example, a blazer with a shirt and jeans.” Between 2009 and 2013, the suit sales in the US market The amount continues to grow at a rate of 10% per year.

In other words, male consumers who have got rid of suits and experienced a few years of casual fashion baptism have higher requirements for brand and taste. They like a more interesting and younger design, but at the same time they have to take care of the wear and convenience; choose the best, but the quality is consistent; if you have a personalized service, it is better.

Suitsupply just caught this demand. In addition to the 15 classic version of the ready-to-wear suits, they also offer semi-custom suits that are modified according to the customer's size based on the fixed layout; all the stores have resident tailors, which can meet the customer's modification requirements within half an hour; online shopping also counts Convenient, according to the Chinese official website, it is "free return within 30 days, free shipping from 3,000 yuan, and delivery within 10-12 working days."

However, the most important thing is to be able to reduce costs while maintaining quality. According to founder Fokkede Jong, their model is similar to Zara, which is to hold the entire vertical supply chain in their hands - the fabric is supplied by the Italian factory, the sewing is in China; the store design emphasizes the artistry, but the store is generally selected Unique places close to the city center but with relatively low rents, such as the top floor of a apartment, a single-family building, etc.

However, from the comments on the consumer evaluation website Yelp, the value of Suitsupply is not very high, with an average of only 3.5 points (out of 5 points). Take the New York SOHO store as an example. The negative comments are mainly focused on the attitude of the clerk and the delivery time. A customer named DarusT. commented: "There are a lot of sales people in the store, but one of them has a nostril, and I don't care for the ordinary customers like me and my husband." Another customer named JustinR. Then I encountered a situation where I received a custom suit two and a half months after I measured the size in the store.

The evaluation on the domestic public comment is similar. One of the most praised comments on the website of Shanghai North Shaanxi Road is: “I feel that the male salesperson only looks at height and sales, and other professional qualities are not required. Let the waiter recommend the product, but the other party’s words are pitiful. Repeatedly shirking, asked a few questions as if to ask passers-by, even the simplest button-down (note: refers to the shirt) do not understand, had to say that service attitude and professionalism is too general."

Suitsupply's practice in advertising creativity is also often criticized. Most of them are made up of women who are undressed and men who are proud of their suits and suits. They look like the style of Playboy magazine.

In 2010, its series of ads featuring “Shameless” (shameless) was asked to remove Facebook because of “materialized women”. The same was true in 2014 – a man in a suit was surrounded by a group of wet bikini female models, but the video was arbitrarily divided into an uncensored and censored version. Although the theme of the spring/summer 2016 “Gentleman Plaything” joined the concept of “female dominates the world”, the tone of “Playboy” has not changed.

When asked why he chose to open a store in Hong Kong, the founder and CEOFokkedeJong told the South China Morning Post, "We have always been concerned about Hong Kong and are very confident about this market. Suitsupply's online business in Hong Kong is strong, which is also A good sign."

In fact, the saying "because of the strong performance of online business, so expand business here" has appeared many times. When Suitsupply launched TheBoxOffice online styling consulting service in London last year, deJong responded to the media for the same reason.

A more realistic guess is that Suitsupply hopes to expand its Asian business with China as its core. Currently, the brand's largest market is still in the US, followed by Europe. In addition to China, there are only one store in Korea and Singapore. Although it opened Weibo and WeChat respectively in 2012 and 2013, it only used Chinese official website and Tmall International flagship store as sales channels until it started to expand its stores in China last summer.

However, even if the domestic market seems to have a big gap, the competition that Suitsupply faces in ready-to-wear and semi-customization is increasing. Consumers in first-tier cities have become more choices, such as the domestic brand Blue Panther, the American brand brooksbrother, and the Shanghai local brand WWChan & Sons. The consumption habits of second- and third-tier cities in semi-custom suits may still need to be cultivated.

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